Senora Elisabeth finds her Inner Rachel Ray

So, I know I've talked to a lot of you about how awful my Senora's cooking was during the first few weeks, but I have decided it is safe now to announce apparently she CAN cook. The three of us have given her lists of foods and food preparation that we like and dislike. She had asked us the first week to write some things down and obviously we should have done it sooner because immediately after she had those lists the food improved. For the past week dinner has tasted great each night, she's made salmon, quiche, vegetable soup, grilled steak with garlic and olive oil, omelets, carrot soup, fried eggs, large salads with lots of vegetables, etc. No more of those nasty mashed potatoes with mystery chunks or those weird mushrooms typical in the Mixed Vegetable from Thai place (those creep me out).


We also told her that we are interested in trying foods typical to Catalonia. One night she made us Arroz con Verduras (Rice with Vegetables) and served it with tomatoes with basil and olive oil and a fried egg. It was rice mixed with sauteed onion, spinach, peas, raisins, pine nuts, bay leaf, and olive oil. It was so simple yet absolutely delicious. Senora told us it was a typical dish but didn't really explain, so I asked my Food and Culture teacher about it and she told me that anything labeled Catalan most of the time will include spinach, raisins, and pine nuts.


That explanation was quite helpful today when Jami and I were at lunch together in Born. Born is one of our favorite areas of the city, especially for eating. We picked a small restaurant near the Church de Santa Maria del Mar originally thinking we might go with the lunch special, which includes a first course, a main dish, bread, a drink and dessert. It's typical for restaurants to offer this sort of deal from about 1pm-3pm each day, most of the time it's a great deal (ranging from 7€ to 15€ and even more really nice places). But when we sat down my eye caught the plate the man across from us had in front of him. I asked him what he was eating, he said it was the spinach crepe and it had been recommended to him. It looked more like a burrito then a crepe, but it was stuffed with lots of spinach, pine nuts, raisins, and small diced vegetables like carrots and a bit of onion, mainly it was a lot of nicely seasoned spinach, all surrounded my a bright red colored paprika sauce. I loved it.

Day 1- Stupid! Should have worn a warmer coat!

Last weekend I did the Barcelona Bus Turistic with Devan, Emily and Denielle. We got two day passes at a reduced rate from IES so Saturday we did the red line and Sunday we did the blue line. Saturday we saw some of Gaudi's work, Le Pedrera, Mercat de Sarria, Port Veil, the Maritime Museum, Barri Gotic, Montjuic, etc. Sunday we saw more North Barcelona, including Gaudi's Sagrada Familia, Gracia, Sarria, etc. It was so cold we learned our lesson the first day when none of us were prepared, so Sunday we wore gloves, hats, and heavy coats so we could last the entire ride on the top, open section of the bus. Since it was so cold we didn't get off the bus much. Mainly we used it as a way to get to know the city streets and areas and which places we want to visit when A.) it is warmer out and B.) when we have full days to dedicate, for example Montjuic would be a great all day adventure and beautiful in the sun. The best part of the entire thing was the people watching, great views from so high up!

Really ornate, super cool lamp posts designed by Gaudi.

Tomorrow morning I have to be at Placa Catalunya at 7:45am to get on a bus to Tarragona, Spain. It is a Study Trip with IES. Everyone is going and we do all the activities with our Spanish class. Expect a post about what I see and do there this weekend.

Lastly, I had my first meeting about my trip to Morocco in March. There are 12 of us going and 3 IES staff and when we get there, former Peace Corp volunteers lead us around as well as local university students who are trying to work on their English. We spend two of our nights with a host family, the others in a hotel, there will be hiking, great food, beautiful landscapes, camel riding on the beach, possibly some swimming blah blah blah.  I am so freaking excited for it, I wish spring break were tomorrow!

Orange Bliss

I used to feel oranges were a whole lot of work, thick skin, rind in your fingernails, an all day aroma of citrus and sticky hands, all for a mediocre outcome. I find it incredibly disappointing to peel an orange, take a bite, and not have my taste buds jump with sweet and sour excitement. In the past two weeks however I have consumed an average of 2-4 oranges a day. They are so juicy and flavorful that when I open the fruit cabinet I find my self bypassing my usually favorite apple, and easier to peel clementine, and reaching my hand straight to the back for an orange.

And on the topic of oranges, I came across this interesting post on Civil Eats, Getting Fresh: An Interview with Alissa Hamilton on Orange Juice. She wrote the book Squeezed: What You Don't Know about Orange Juice. Check out the interview, it's something to think about. I don't really drink orange juice at home, pretty much only in mimosas on Christmas morning, but it is important to ask ourselves where the foods we eat and the things we drink come from and what is actually in them. 

Travel Dates: Update #1

DEVAN AND I ARE GOING TO PARIS!!


Booked my tickets last night for Paris February 5th-7th!

Flan is Gross...

Spanish Flan is an oven-baked caramel custard dessert that is very popular here. It is made with a top layer of custard paired with a light caramel sauce, which is put in the bottom of the pan underneath it. Both are baked together. When chilled and then inverted to un-mold, the sauce pours over the custard and is served as is. The typical flavoring is simply vanilla, but there are numerous variations that include almonds, pistachio, orange, coffee, lemon, and various other fruits.


It seems it can also be bought pre-made in the grocery store (like pudding packs) as well as an "instant" jello-like packet version. Just add water!


FLAN IS GROSS-- Senora made it because Amy likes it and then tried to force feed it to Gina any I. We politely declined a helping the second night. 

Travel Dates

January 28th-30th: IES Study Trip to Tarragona


February 26th-28th: Euskadi (The Basque Country)


March 6th: La Garrotxa, the Volcanic Zone


March 28th-31st: Morocco


more details to come...

My Class Schedule

Monday & Wednesday:
9-10:30am - Women in Mediterranean Literature
2:05-3:30pm - Spanish


Tuesday & Thursday:
10:45-12:15pm - Creative Travel Writing
12:25-1:55pm - Food as an Expression of Culture
5:30-7pm - Sustainability: Challenges and Responses


Friday:
2:05-3:30pm - Spanish

A Touristy Saturday

Saturday morning we taught Senora Elisabeth how to make pancakes. Gina, being from Vermont, brought her pancake mix and maple syrup and Elisabeth asked us if we would make them for her. Since the other two know I like to cook, or figured that meant I can cook, they asked me to do it. So Gina put the mix together and I made them for us. We think she liked them, we're not totally sure.

Saturday I went to the Museu de la Xocolata, the Chocolate Meseum, which is operated by the local confectioners' guild. It tells the story of chocolate from Aztecs to Europeans via the port of Barcelona, where it was first unloaded and processed. There are a series of ornate candy sculptures including spanish themes and movie characters. The museum was alright, I didn't love it, but my friends were going so I tagged along.

My ticket to enter the Museu de la Xocolata

A chocolate Homer Simpson

After the museum we all went out for lunch at Caputxes in Born. During the gourmet tour the guide had mentioned that Born has some really great restaurants and wine shops, and had pointed out the restaurant we ate at. I had the Tomato, Ricotta, and Basil Quiche with salad, it was delicious.

I love the salty olives on the salad!

Right in front of the restaurant is the Church of Santa Maria del Mar, the proud centerpiece of La Ribera. "Del Mar" means "of the sea," and that's where the money came from. Shippers built the church in only 55 years, so it has a harmonious style considered to be pure Catalan Gothic. There are figures of workers carved into the big front doors. During the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), the Church sided with the conservative forces of Franco against the people. In retaliation, the working class took their anger out on this church, burning all of its wood furnishings and decor (carbon still blackens the ceiling). Today it's stripped down naked to its gothic roots. The tree-like columns inspired Gaudi (their influence on the columns inside his Sagrada Familia church can be seen). Which by the way, I haven't visited Sagrada Familia on this trip yet, but I did in high school on my European trip with Roca. Anyways, sixteenth century sailors left models of their ships at the foot of the alter for Mary's protection, today there remains a classic old Catalan ship at Mary's feet. 

Church of Santa Maria del Mar

Inside the Church

More Stain Glass

A Chandelier

After the Church we made our way to Citadel Park (Parc de la Ciutadella)--Barclona's biggest, greenest park, originally the site of a much-hated military citadel, it was transformed in 1888 for a World's Fair (Universal Exhibition). The Triumphal Arch is at the top of the park, celebrating the removal of the citadel, it was built as the main entrance. Inside there are wide pathways and lots of trees and grass. Since Barcelona is one of Europe's most densely populated cities it doesn't have much real green space, but the park is really quite beautiful, we ran around like kids taking pictures with the large mammoth and peaking our head in and out of shrubs and from behind trees, it was really enjoyable. There is also an ornamental fountain that Antoni Gaudi helped design. 

The Arc de Triomphe

Matt, Sebastian, Jami and I messing around.

The fountain a young Gaudi helped design.

Jami and I by the fountain.

Saturday night I went with a bunch of friends to a bar called Dow Jones. It's a pretty cool bar where the prices of drinks fluctuate like in the stock market. All the rates are on LCDs (Similar to Dow Jones stock exchange) and you can see which drinks are in demand and which are not. When the market crashes, the prices drop, and there's a mad scramble to buy a drink! It was really fun, plus Gina, Andrew and I sat right at the bar rather than in the back like the rest of our friends so it was exciting to see everyone come running when the buzzer went off and the red lights would flash. 

Dow Jones Entrance

Obviously enjoying my 1 € beer

I've been putting my guide books to good use this past week and will continue to do touristy things for another week or two. I have heard that once you really get into the swing of things and start traveling you don't explore Barcelona as much, and I want to see a lot of what the city has to offer.

A Lunch Date with Myself

I went to lunch by myself last week at Bar Lobo, I was going to order a salad and an omelet but then this women sitting next to me ordered the Spanish Tomatoes and from a distance they looked good. So last minute I changed my mind and went with the Spanish Tomatoes and a glass of Rioja. As I waited for my food I wrote in my journal and took in the restaurant. The restaurant was really cool, very industrial, yet inviting and slightly shabby with mix and match wooden chairs and tables, some communal and some two and four tops. There was a lot of metal, and black and white with the natural wood elements. One wall was plastered with band posters and the lighting was really interesting. There were two very large industrial lights hanging over a large community table, as well as big, white, round paper lanterns and these really neat lights made out of old atlases.

Spanish Tomatoes

By the time I was done taking in my surroundings my food arrived, one heirloom tomato half topped with mozzarella and olive oil, another with olive oil and green olives, an incredibly red tomato with an olive mixture, and a large tomato with some type of herbed olive oil. It was alright, could have used some salt, but I probably should have stuck with my original order, or at least ordered a second dish because after my plate was cleared away and I went back to writing in my journal and finishing my wine I realized I was sort of buzzed. I woke up early that day, ate an orange and a yogurt and then didn't eat anything until those tomatoes at 5, whoops.

Well I paid my bill, got on the metro home and then took a nap, what a great afternoon.

Pillow Talk

The beautiful people of Sweden would put directions on how to properly sleep on their pillows. My bed is fairly comfortable but I've been having such issues with pillows. Until I discovered directions on my Ikea, foam, temperpedic knock-off pillow. There were two pictures, one of a side sleeper and the other of a back sleeper. Being a side sleeper I was instructed to lay with the largest hump underneath my neck, which I did and now my worry has shifted from neck pain to the early morning, non-stop, jackhammering outside my window 6 days a week. But that's besides the point.


I'm sure you were all losing so much sleep worrying about my comfort, especially you Mom, now you can rest easy knowing that I am sleeping comfortably.

Gourmet Tour

Senora Elisabeth redemed herself this evening with her pork sausage cooked in white wine.

Todays tour was great, we all know I'm all about the food. But even more so it was another opportunity to learn the different neighborhoods. The tour took us from Placa Catalunya, the sort of main square in Barcelona, down la rambla, through Barri Gotic, and into Born.

She talked about Catalan gastronomic culture the entire two hours, however there were a number of designated shops and markets we stopped at for her to explain. The first was Granja Viader which has been family run since 1870. They claim to be the first dairy business to bottle and distribute milk in Spain. They specialize in baked and dairy delights, most famously orxata (or horchata--chufa-nut milk, which is only available in the summer), llet mallorquina (Majorca-style milk with cinnamon, lemon, and sugar), crema catalana (creme brulee), or suis ("swiss" hot chocolate with whipped cream). They also have mel y mato, fresh cheese with honey, which is very Catalan.

Next we were given a bit of free time in Mercat de La Boqueria, a produce market filled with chicken legs, bags of live snails, fresh fish (I was told it is best to go in the morning for fish, when it comes straight off the boat), mas frutas y verduras, dried fruits, chocolates, olives, full legs of ham (jamon serano), Paleta Iberica de Bellota hams are the best and cost about 120 euro, etc. The guide mentioned that Gaudi used to wander around the market looking for inspiration, she also recommended we find time to visit the Pinotxo Bar in the market for cafe, breakfast, or tapas.

Jamon Serrano

This vendor must have thought I was very bizarre, he kept laughing at me. This is just one of the many picture of dead fish I took. I couldn't help it, they captivated me.

Chili Peppers

As we kept walking, just off of la rambla she told us about a series of vegetarian cafes and small markets. We learned about chocolates, and the Churros con Chocolate, many many pastry shops (each one as delicious looking as the next), Cola (a typical Catalan pastry with some sugar and pine nuts on top), and Tartleta de Musica (a tart made with chocolate and lots of nuts that used to be served to the poor musicians because they needed the calories and energy from the nuts, typically served with red wine).

The tour ended at Mercat de Santa Caterina, a produce market designed by a local architect on site of a medieval Dominican monastery. This market has less vendors than La Boqueria, but there is more room in between each stall. I like the feel of La Boqueria better. Each of us got a ticket for two tapas and a drink at the markets cafe. I had a glass of Rioja and the tapas, which were two pieces of toasted baguette, one with a vegetable mixture in vinegar and olive oil and a sardine, the other was topped with sauted onions and sausage. The tapas were alright, the glass of wine was more noteworthy.

Last night I went out for a few drinks with my roommates and some friends I've made, Matt, Andrew (Gina's boyfriend who is here with a different program), Sebastian (Andrew and Matt's friend from home), and two girls from their study abroad program. Tonight I am staying in with my book (Beach Music by Pat Conroy...go ahead judge me). I am exhausted and need to refuel for the weekend. Tomorrow Jami and I are having lunch (we only just ran into each other today), I will go to spanish, perhaps shop around a bit, nap, eat dinner, and then my RA who lives in an apartment near me is hosting a get together so everyone that lives in this area can get to know each other, then out somewhere.

One last thing...every night at dinner our Senora asks if we are going out. First she looks to Amy, then to Gina, and then to me. I haven't gone out as much as they have so she always has this look like I am going to say no. Last night was one of the nights I said yes and then Amy tried to make a joke saying "Ella es fiesta animal." Senora Elisabeth laughed so hard she was crying and finally was able to choke out that she didn't understand. Obviously party animal doesn't translate...

Settling In

I've arrived in Barcelona for the semester, later than expected due to a cancelled flight and delays, but here none the less! I am living with Senora Elisabeth and two other girls from my IES program, Amy and Gina. Elisabeth seems nice, she doesn't speak any English though, only Spanish and Italian. Communication is difficult because my Spanish is horrible, but with some concentration I can understand some of what she says (she talks really fast) and it takes even more concentration to translate my thoughts into words. We don't talk much at breakfast but at dinner it's a mix of Spanish and English, mainly Amy translating for all of us. My Spanish can only improve in this situation which is promising.

With some friends on Las Ramblas before lunch.

Yesterday I had lunch with Devan and Ben, both friends from GW and Devan's roommates at Taller De Tapas, just off of las ramblas. The restaurant had been recommended in Devan's guide book and was really great. Our waiter recommended 2 plates per person, so we each ordered two and shared everything. We had Patatas Bravas, fried potatoes with garlic mayonnaise and smoked paprika sauce, Brocheta de Pollo Marianado, herb and wine marinated chicken kebob, Esparrecs verds a la Planxa, grilled green asparagus, Cordero del Pirineo al horno con Romero y Tomillo, slow roasted lamb with rosemary and thyme, Espinacas con pancetta Iberica y Garbanzos, pan fried spinach, chickpeas and pancetta, also three dishes that were specials, duck with goat cheese and a balsamic reduction, meatballs, and roasted suckling pig with patatas and crispy spicy peppers. My top three favorite dishes were:

-the duck

-the spinach with chickpeas and pancetta

-Patatas Bravas

No food pictures this time, sorry.

Amy and Gina told me the meal Elisabeth made their first night was not edible, but everything she made after I arrived, up until last night was pretty good. Last night she served us these weird instant mashed potatoes that tasted like paste and had cheese on top and we all think she said they had eggs in them, which would explain those strange chunks...GROSS I feel sick just thinking about it.

I took a walking tour of Bohemian Barcelona where Picasso lived yesterday. First I saw "Els Quatre Gats" meaning 4 cats, a Spanish expression meaning "a few unimportant persons." It is famous for its relationship with Picasso when he lived in Barcelona, he designed the menu and went there often.

I saw many places he lived with his family as well as on his own during his time in Barcelona, his favorite place to pick up prostitutes and where he hung out. The tour ended at the Picasso Museum, which holds mainly pieces the family had in their possession. A lot of early landscapes and portraits, as well as some things from his blue period and pink period and a series of bi-dimension works.

Today I am going on a tour of the old town to hear about and sample Barcelona's most emblematic gastronomic establishments and Catalan gastronomic culture. Yum.